Philly has cheesesteaks, New York claims bagels, and Cincinnati deems chili its defining dish. Here in the Twin Cities, we have a superior (unofficial) state food in the savory, cheese-packed sensation that is the Juicy Lucy. (Or, if you’re eating at Matt’s, the Jucy Lucy.) For the uninitiated, a Juicy Lucy is a succulent burger stuffed with cheese — almost like a ravioli — then griddled.
This burger is so Minnesotan, it’ll squirt hot molten cheese on you if you bite into it too fast — and if that isn’t passive-aggressive behavior, I don’t know what is. Many amateur grillers have tried to recreate Lucys at home, but this week I decided to leave the griddling to the professionals and eat my way through the metro’s Juicy Lucy trail. After wiping the grease off my fingers and cheese threads off my face, here are the finest Lucys I found.
The overall favorite: Juicy Lucy at the Groveland Tap ($15.95)
The Groveland Tap feels like the kind of bar my dad might have walked in 20 years ago — its timeless style captures a true neighborhood bar feel. I got the classic, straightforward Juicy Lucy. What set this burger apart was the quality of the sear and the cheese. The burger itself was thin enough to not unhinge my jaw, thick enough to retain an even medium-rare. The savory meat mingled with the creamy American cheese in the middle: It was enough to make a mess, but a good kind of mess. This Lucy came with pickles and that’s it: It’s simplicity at its finest.
Ultra-cheesy: The Mogul Burger at Wendy’s House of Soul ($14.99)
I’ll admit: This is not a standard Juicy Lucy. Deep-fried in a gluten-free wrap with turkey bacon and two patties, it doesn’t follow the typical recipe. But that actually works to its advantage.
Wendy’s is located inside North Minneapolis’s North Market grocery store — to get your food you have to go to the deli counter. Don’t let that dissuade you, though: This beefy burger comes stuffed with onions, peppers, and enough cheese to make Philly diners jealous. (Plus, pickles, pepperoncini, and fries on the side.) First impressions: Wendy’s “Mogul Burger” is crunchy on the outside. Is this different than the typical Lucy? Yes. Is it good? Also yes. The deep-fried wrap houses two beef patties (a half pound of meat) and slices of turkey bacon that are fighting for their life to contain the deluge of cheese inside — which, fair warning, may spill over your fingers. This is cheese like you wouldn’t believe, creamy and piping hot, an ideal pairing with the well-spiced patties. You may want to bring a friend to Wendy’s, though, because the Mogul Burger is a big bite.
Classics never die: The Jucy Lucy at Matt’s Bar ($10.25)
Matt’s Bar typically ranks high on lists of the best Juicy Lucys in the Twin Cities. It’s simple, it’s greasy, it’s good. Matt’s (allegedly) pioneered the concept of the Jucy Lucy and has been throwing down these iconic burgers ever since — though, of course, that’s a point of contention with the 5-8 Club. You know the product is good, or at least well-regarded by locals, when a bar is always packed to capacity. There’s almost always a line outside Matt’s.
This Jucy Lucy is made on one hardworking griddle that’s lined with rows and rows of fried onions and cheese-stuffed burgers. Matt’s issues warnings about possible projectile dairy disasters, but I somehow avoided any burns and stains and enjoyed my first bite unscathed. Once again, Matt’s isn’t a jaw-buster — it’s a small burger that packs big flavor. The seasoning of that workhorse grill is transferred to the fried onions (highly recommend you don’t skip these), which pair well with the tangy pickles. The bun is substantial enough to handle the cheese, and the meat itself brings a savory finish to the ensemble. There’s a reason why Matt’s has been doing it at the top of the game for a long time.